Turkmenistan by Paul

"Buoyed by enormous oil revenues which have been lavishly spent on the country's infrastructure, Turkmenistan has emerged as one of the preeminent Central Asian states. But although the main centres reflect this recent rise in riches, much of the country remains in a time warp, little visited or known to the outside world," reports Paul Craven, East Country Director.

I visited Turkmenistan in 1986. What has changed since then? The country's oil and gas reserves have helped it develop its infrastructure. Brand new ministry buildings, of white marble and glass, and often referred to as the "palaces" are much in evidence in Ashgabat (Ashgabad). Wide new roads and parks have been built and each major town has a brand new theatre. Inter city roads are new and with little traffic, the airline is efficient and operates Boeing aircraft whilst the new train stock has come from China who have an excellent rail system of their own. Hotels in the major centres range from perfectly adequate to good.


Many people transit Turkmenistan en route between Iran and Uzbekistan. However, the country has a lot more to offer. Arts and crafts are still important. Each region produces its own style of carpet. Women still knit socks and embroider their own clothes and scull caps. National dress is still worn by them. In the countryside old men can be seen wearing their woollen hats that look like curled up lambs upon their heads.




Agriculture is still very important. Cotton or "white gold" is a cash crop. Delicious fruits; melons, pomegranates, tomatoes and vegetables; peppers, cucumbers and onions are sold by the side of the road or in the sprawling bazaars that each centre has. Many towns have one major market that operates once or twice a week. The largest, and said to rival the Kashgar Sunday market in western China, is the Tolkuchka Sunday market in Ashgabat. Not only is produce sold but carpets, jewellery, clothing, household wares, cars and livestock including goats, sheep and camels. It is fun and chaotic and a "must see".

Most people visit the major centres of Ashgabat and Mary (to see the ancient cities of Merv) where there are good hotels. An additional visit, if in Mary, should be made to the Margush region to see Gonur Tepe. Only discovered in the 1970's by the Greek archaeologist Viktor Sarianidi it is accessed via sand desert roads. It failed when the Oxus River, now called the Amu Daryr, changed its course in the Bronze Age.



Ashgabat has a magnificent National Museum, a carpet Museum, displaying the world's largest hand-made carpet and a number of monuments relating to the country's independence. The Arch of Neutrality has a golden statue of its last president, Nyazamov, on the top. It revolves so that he is always facing the sun. There are still many reminders of the Soviet Union including apartment blocks (complete with massive satellite dishes outside almost every window), mosaics and check points ! In the north of the country, a short distance from Nukus in Uzbekistan is Konye Urgench, a vast cemetery with some impressive mausoleums and the tallest minaret in Central Asia.








Away from the major centres one must be prepared for a far more basic existence, either camping or staying with a local family. My personal highlights included visiting Dhamla and Yangikala. Dhamla is a 5/6 hour drive from Ashgabat including 3/4 hours through the Karakum Desert, the third largest in the world. The village of about 500 people is set in an oval shaped valley devoid of trees. Surrounding the village are sand dunes and small saxaul trees. There is no electricity, no gas and no telephones. The children are happy to see you and there is no begging or shirt pulling, truly refreshing. In the early morning the animals; goats, sheep and camels are let out of their enclosures. They return in the evening and are watered and milked. All the family take part in looking after them. Fermented camels milk takes some getting used to. Bread is baked in earthen ovens. Felt making can be seen in the warmer months.




Yangikala is also remote. Nobody lives here. Eagles soar overhead staying motionless on the warm air currents above the ridges. The reason people come here is to see the extraordinary stone. Layers upon layers of different coloured rock, eroded by wind and rain, make for a visual wonderland. The peace and quiet is amazing. No people and virtually no traffic. Camping on a ridge one can see the occasional lorry headlights in the distance as they pick there way across the terrain.



Nearer to Ashgabat, but still requiring an overnight stay, is the village of Nokhur. Many of the houses are built of stone and the cemetery is unique in so far as most headstones have a pair of mountain goat horns on them. A walk in the village is peaceful and gives an insight into village life, a total contrast to Dhamla. Silk weaving is carried out in the village.



For any more information do not hesitate to either ring myself or indeed any member of the East team. More information on Turkmenistan can be found in the relevant section.