Signs that speak of "Fixed Prices" in five different languages are a warning to any self-respecting traveller to stay away. So too, anywhere trying to sell itself on the back of Star Wars. These two lessons I learned quickly on arrival in Tunisia. Thankfully there is much more to Tunisia than the dark side and over enthusiastic salesmen.

Quite simply, away from the package hotels there is a captivating and colourful side to Tunisia. Moorish doorways, mountain scenery and classical ruins are a more compelling and interesting Tunisia that I did not believe that existed until I found them.

Tunisia has a wealth of classical heritage. Fortunately the majority of visitors - with the possible exception of the imposing and monumental amphitheatre of El Jem - do not seem to be interested in culture and you can have the charming Roman sights of Dougga, Thuburbo Majus and Bulla Reggia virtually to yourself.










Overlooking the fertile valley of Khalled, with cicadas ringing in the background, Dougga is nestled amongst an orchard of olive trees. The setting is enchanting and immediately I wished that I had brought a picnic. I wanted to lie in the shade of the orchard sipping chilled wine as I contemplated the former glories of Dougga.

Judging by the impressive ruins, such glories must have been impressive, for the site of Dougga is considered, for its diversity and beauty, amongst the most spectacular not only of Tunisia but indeed of the whole of North Africa. The theatre, with a capacity of about 3,500, is one of the best preserved in Africa with glorious views out over the valley below. The capitol is grand and imposing.


What really surprised me were its mosaics, most of which are now housed in the Bardo Museum in Tunis. Not being a 'museum man' I was not expecting much of the Bardo. I could not have been more wrong as I was bowled over by its stunning collection. I was not surprised to later discover that the collection of Roman mosaics in the Bardo museum is considered to be one of the best in the world.




Enraptured by the delights of the Bardo, where I was so enthralled and absorbed by the mosaics that I did not notice the other tourists, I felt brave enough to venture into the souq. Immediately I was confronted by a gawping group of tourists but thankfully the herd instinct prevails. Lacking imagination or independence, such groups will not deviate from what has been ordained by their guide and I was thus able to avoid them and lose myself in the labyrinthine network of alleys, which was fantastic. Especially as I discovered the charming boutique hotel Dar el Medina; with just twelve individually decorated rooms it is the only hotel in the souq.


Seeking refuge from the hustle of Tunis, I set off for Sidi Bou Said. Set up on a hill, with its breeze, cobbled streets, white washed houses with heavy studded doors and blue mashrabiya, balconies, it is delightful. The combination of bougainvillea, birds and blue balconies, is not only attractive and stylish but soothing and calming. The wonderful Dar Said is the perfect place to stay.

I ended with what I had been looking for: a private Tunisia that I could enjoy in my own time without being swept alongside by the tourist tide.