In Tsarist times, this monastery, which sits on an island just outside the Arctic Circle in the White Sea, was one of the most important in the empire. Although under Communism its remote and inhospitable location led to its conversion into one of the most infamous and cruel gulags, today restoration is underway to restore it to its former glory.

There is a short window of opportunity in the summer when the weather is usually glorious and although it is not an easy destination and beds are severely limited, the trip is well worth the reward.

Travel there from St Petersburg by train and boat stopping on the way to visit the little known city of Kargapol with its unique wooden architecture. On arrival you can row a boat through the myriad of natural canals which crisscross the island.