This disappointingly modern city holds at its centre a gem of architectural splendour, the like of which is found no where else in the world. Each window of the grey brick houses is inlaid with white gypsum and many have stained glass adding to the contrasting colours. The streets, barely wide enough for a car, exude an atmosphere of long forgotten travels. There are 100 year old Turkish hammans, the smell of spices and everywhere men with turbans, beards and the inevitable dagger wear the long dish-dash and an English tweed jacket. The few hotels are surprisingly good, the food excellent and plentiful and no lunch would be complete without a chew of the ubiquitous quat.