The Ngorongoro conservation area is dominated by the massive crater, which has formed the focal point of so many television documentaries. The crater floor itself is alive with game, particularly around Lake Magadi, which is also well known for its flamingo population. Elsewhere on the crater floor, predators roam freely, terrorising the vulnerable plains game that huddles in groups as the dusk settles. The views from the rim are spectacular and the fever tree forest, which characterises the area, is alive with elephant, leopard and buffalo, most of which descend into the crater to feed. To explore this forest with an armed guide in search of smaller craters, mountain rivers and waterfalls is one of Africa's real treats.