Madagascar is an island with a feast of experiences ranging from desert and sandstone to sprawling lemur-filled primary rainforests to some of the most beautiful islands I have ever encountered. The people are delightfully friendly, if not a little amused by the constant dribble of anorak-clad tourists flowing through the towns and rainforests. Service can be a little ad hoc and slow but the food is usually excellent - fresh fish, brochettes of Zebu (local humped cattle) and, of course, plenty of rice (paddy fields are a constant sight throughout Madagascar).


Even the local tipple Three Horses Beer was delicious (not sure how the name originated as there are virtually no horses in Madagascar?).







Tourism and the quality of accommodation is definitely behind the rest of Southern Africa but if you are prepared to accept accommodation which is charming but a little rough around the edges then Madagascar will not let you down. There are, however, a few real gems for those requiring a 'bit of luxury' such as Anjajavy with its lemur oasis and Tsarabanjina island with the most beautiful beach I have seen in a long time - especially after two hours by speedboat on a very rocky sea!










My other favourites - that are definitely for the more adventurous - are Isalo and the Masoala Peninsula. The latter is a primary rainforest, marshland, mangrove forest, coastal forest National Park in the north east of the island. Accommodation is basic (I stayed at Masoala Forest Lodge which was a comfortable bush camp that focuses on eco-tourism and living in harmony with the forest). There are not many places in the world where within a matter of a couple of steps you can walk straight from primary rainforest with lemurs to glorious white sandy beaches to watch humpback whales?



Isalo National Park, located in the South, is personally one of the most beautiful Malagasy landscapes, with a solid mass of sandstone incised with gorges and deep canyons, secondary rainforest and a labyrinth of waterfalls and natural swimming pools surrounded by African savannah.

My trip was only two and a half weeks which did mean that sadly I was unable to explore every inch of Madagascar (it is almost the size of Europe) but I certainly gave it a good go: plenty of speedboats, 4x4, light air and road transfers. A word of warning: some of the roads are atrocious!






If you love your small primates, flora and fauna, beautiful and contrasting landscapes, scuba diving, whales, reptiles and rainforest (or for the more sedate relaxing on idyllic beaches) then Madagascar is one to visit.

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