Tracking and observing western lowland gorillas is a very different exercise in comparison to the mountain gorillas.
The explanation is ecological, that is to say related to the environment. In the equatorial lowland forest, the closed canopy means that grasses are scarce in the undergrowth as light is insufficient, whereas in the mountain forest ground level vegetation is much more rich and dense, a 'giant salad bowl' for the gorillas. This structure and botanical composition of the central African lowland forest affects the range and dietary regime of the western lowland gorilla. It necessitates long travel in search of food, particularly preferred fruits and thus the western lowland gorilla's extended territory in comparison to the mountain gorilla.
Tracking lowland gorillas is thus not easy and does not have the same success rate as with the mountain gorillas. But here in Dzanga Sangha, WWF researchers are working with the Ba'Aka to aid the process of habituating the gorillas to humans. If it were not for the Ba'Aka, their incredible knowledge of the forest and their unerring ability to track the wildlife it would not be possible to track and hence habituate the gorillas.
Again, I have tried to describe my own persoanl experince tracking lowland gorillas in Dzanga Sangha. For more information please give me a call on 01285 650011
We arrived at Bai Hokou research camp. A collection of huts with few amenities and little entertainment, except for a basketball hoop, which struck me as a little challenging for the pygmy trackers. We headed off into the forest with Mobambu, our Ba'Aka guide.
As the gorillas were not yet fully habituated they were wary of our presence, even aggressive. On three different occasions the silverback charged us. He began with a low coughing, which worked up in pitch and frequency to a loud screech bark. And then he would charge. His charge was noisy and sudden. A rapid blur. Our reaction was instant and instinctive: we cowered down in fear. Submission was immediate and unconditional. Appreciation of his strength was total.
It ended as quickly as it started and he crashed back into the undergrowth. I breathed again and reckoned that he must have stopped some six to eight metres away - to my mind it felt like a lot less. It was an experience that produced adrenalin like no other experience I've ever had before.
We would then wait. Ears and eyes straining, I would try and work out where the gorillas were. It was unnerving how silently they moved through the forest. After several minutes Mobambu said that they had moved ahead of us, unseen and unheard. Mobambu then led us in an arc in case we had disturbed the gorillas and they wanted to return to a spot. I was totally disorientated but we moved confidently forward under the absolute guidance of Mobambu who would uncannily bring us into contact with the gorillas having walked in an arc of some several hundred metres some ten minutes later.
Although it was not always easy to see through the vegetation, I managed to catch some remarkable views of the group. Unlike the mountain gorillas where you invariably spend the majority of your time looking through a camera lens to get the picture perfect postcard shot, here with the lowland gorillas it was about moments and the experience as a whole. A mother with a young baby stood up and clapped her hands together. I was unsure if this was to warn us against coming any closer or to attract the attention of the silverback, her defender, to prevent us from doing so. Whichever we erred on the side of caution and kept our distance. Inevitably this provoked the curiosity of an infant who edged closer to get a better look. He was further intrigued when I started hiding behind a tree, playing a game of peek-a-boo with him. Meanwhile another juvenile totally ignored us, breaking a termite mound into fist-size pieces and then shaking the termites into his hand. Handful at a time he would stuff the termites into his mouth.
It was in one sense a very special and gentle experience. Deeply emotional and one that I feel not fully able to articulate. On the other it was a thrilling adrenaline rush, not least to be charged so often by the silverback. He was extraordinary and there is simply no way to anticipate or prepare yourself for his full size and strength. His power is awesome.
