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Karnataka

Karnataka TempleKarnataka Elephant Stables


Monkeys in KarnatakaI had always wanted to visit Hampi, a historically and architecturally intriguing site situated in the southern Indian state of Karnataka. I knew little else of this region apart from that it promised some of the most beautiful scenery in South India with lush green forests, sparkling waterfalls, rolling hills and some world class heritage sites.

Friends had visited Hampi and told me that they had found it so majestic and imposing that they were totally dumbfounded, spending many days exploring the site and staying for far longer than they initially planned. Its remoteness attracted not least as I would be able to get away from the madding crowds and tourists who frequent the better known states of Rajasthan and Kerala. I was not to be disappointed.

Temple Pillars, KarnatakaA full day's drive from Bangalore along a good national highway, I arrived at a dusty, little town called Hospet, the only place that offers a reasonable standard of accommodation in the area. Twelve kilometres away, set amidst an awesome boulder strewn landscape, along the banks of the Tungaghadra River is Hampi, the once magnificent capital of the mighty Vijaynagar Kings who ruled in this area between the 13th and 15th Century. The city was very wealthy, greater than Rome some say, with a market full of jewels and palaces plated with gold. It was well fortified and defended by a large army. After many years of rule The Vijaynagars were defeated by Muslim Sulthans who destroyed much of the city. With further rulers, Hindu and Muslim alike, conquering the area and putting their mark on the foundations, what is left today is a fantastic mix of architectural styles.

This site is truly magical and atmospheric and definitely deserves a full day of sightseeing if not two. There is so much to explore here from opulent palaces, marvellous temples, massive fortifications, baths, markets, aqueducts, pavilions, elegantly carved pillars and stables for royal elephants. I ended the day sitting high up on one of the huge granite boulders looking out over a hazy sunset, convinced that Hampi was one of India's top ten sites.

Black Soapstone CarvingNot only was I overwhelmed by the beauty of Hampi, but my journey through Karnataka also took me to discover some other gems - Aihole, acclaimed as the cradle of Hindu temple architecture with it's impressive Durga Temple; Pattadakal, a world Heritage Site on the bank of the River Malapracha standing as a lasting testimony to the richness of Chalukyan architecture; the cave temples at Badami and last but not least the small but beautiful temples of Belur and Halebid, which provide a complete contrast to the other sites, having been carved in black, shiny soapstone with such intricate detail you almost need a magnifying glass to appreciate it. Incredible.

Spending a few nights in The Club at the Leela Goa was the perfect way to end my journey allowing me time to reflect on the myriad of sights, smells, sounds and wonders I had experienced, leaving me enriched and enchanted.




Karnataka




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