A fairer city it would be hard to find and a stroll here in the evening sunshine is a delight with its huge central square, formerly a polo field, surrounded by elegant mosques and palaces. At one end is the souq where several miles of tunnels link carpet dealers, silversmiths, spice sellers and pottery traders. Famed for its waterways, there are a number of magnificent bridges including the See-o Se Pol Bridge with its 33 arches and an Armenian church.