India by Clare
Life in Kerala is slower, the smiles are wider and the streets are quieter, the greetings are sincere and the people are very warm - as is the temperature in April. Business has slowed down since the end of March and global warming has sped up , with the weather pattern being that of October and not April. I was greeted with dark clouds and continous soft rain whilst driving from the airport to Cochin, which persisted into the night. This provided me with the perfect excuse to opt for a fine seafood dinner over local exploration, courtesy of Malabar Junction, the intimate al frescoe restaurant located at Malabar House (boasting as many waiters as dishes on the menu - but truly sensational flavours, hat off to the chef!).
My arrival in Cochin fell on the 14th April which is a very auspicious day in the Hindu calender, and more so for Keralans as it is the first day of their new Year, based on the Malaylam calender. Opening my bedroom door I was greeted with my own personal Vishu Kanni, a shrine-like offering to each guest. Tradition has it that you wake up at dawn and go to the Puja room with your eyes tightly closed so that the first thing you see in the morning is the Vishu Kanni which is believed to bring good luck for the rest of the year. If I had blindfolded myself I think I may have fallen down the staircase in front of my door!
I was lucky enough to find my self in Kerala, at the quieter tail end of the season. This is a gentle, slower pace than other parts of India, with an idyllic tropical climate during November to April, and the cooler mountain air of the hill country easily accessible if in need of a refreshing breeze.The Western Ghats are the highest point in India, south of the Himalaya, and host exotic spice, rubber and tea plantations, excellent walking and less frequented wildlife reserves.With an inexhaustive list of butterflies and bird species the area is sure to whet the appetite most avid birders.
I was here to revisit some of our favourite hotels and ayuvedic spas and also to discover the secret gem of the Lakshadweep Islands. These islands are still very remote and more often than not overlooked by visitors to Kerala who travel further South to the well patronised beaches of Kovalam. The islands are located 250 kilometres off the coast of Cochin and accessed by one flight daily. Although there are eleven islands which make up the far north atoll extending from the Maldives, only three of these are open to tourism and advance planning is necessary as permits are required. I often find that the harder the travel is initially to reach your destination, the more you reap the rewards in the form of pristine and unspoilt scenery and people that are more likely to wave all day at you then ask for a pen or a pound. Such was the case with Lakshadweep Island, and Kerala in general - you do an awful lot of waving and uncontrollable smiling as the people here have hearts as warm as the sunshine.
After an hour flight, the lagooned islands come into view surrounded by a reef break and containing the most beautiful clear aqua marine sea and coral white powder sands. The sound of the waves are instantly noticeable when you step of the aircraft. Pure Heaven!
Everything here is done at island pace and the local village children stand by the gate of the airfield perimeter to wave and welcome you to the islands - this appears to be a highlight of their day and pulls in quite a crowd. As I step off the plane I instantly feel refreshed and priveleged to be a guest on the island.
The sparkle of the sea and the children that have gathered, beckon you to wait on the beach which is the official Transit Lounge to Bangaram Island. Turtles also come to greet you. The shallow waters in the channel between Agatti Island and Bangaram island provide safe haven for three species of turtle, the Olive Ridley, the Leatherback and the Old Hawksbill turtle. Instantly everybody on board the boat is friendly and chatting . The smiles stretch from ear to ear as we lose count of the turtles we are spotting. Our boat transfer is also greeted , if but briefly, by a pod of dolphins.
The guests dress down, bare feet mostly, no need for shoes here, as there are no roads or paths, just sand tracks, the most that is required is a t-shirt , bathers and shorts. But glimpses of wealth can be detected from the clientele with a Prada handbag on the sunlounger, Gucci sunglasses on the bar , and other tell-tale signs. The huts are very much at backpacker standard, rustic and functional , with no luxurious touches, but the resort seems to work! The food was out of this world, providing a buffet for lunch and an evening feet-in-the-sand fresh fish grill and tandoor meal, all piping hot and served with much pride . Early nights followed early mornings when the dive boats would leave the shore line as the other guests stretched high to the rising sun in their yoga classes.
On departing the island guests and staff alike waved a heartfelt good bye to friends they have made in such a short time..... lots of invites are exchanged between new found friends to stay in differing corners of the World ! I still felt priveleged to have visited but it must be said those fluffy towels were calling.
If the laid back beach life and awesome diving outweighs the need for creature comforts then Bangaram Island is the perfect place for you. I have yet to learn to dive but when I do, this shall definitely be one of my first destinations!
