India has always struck me as a unique melting pot of class, religion, language, scenery and culture, within a single country, which makes it incomparable to any other destination one may visit and continues to enchant me.




I was delighted to revisit Rajasthan to see for myself what changes had occurred since I was last there. The main highlights on this route for the first time traveller are the sites of Delhi, the breathtaking and mesmerising view of the Taj Mahal, and the fortressed cities of Jaipur and Jodphur.












This time around, the real highlight for me was the painstakingly renovated fortressed palaces, fabulous scenery and fascinating historical anecdotes of the bygone era found deep in the heart of Rural Rajasthan.





My journey started in New Delhi, the international gateway to Rajasthan. A five hour journey south by car brought me to the "pink city" of Jaipur. Renowned for its gems, artworks and textiles it is an artisan's city. With the assistance from the government and the King, artisans are invited from all over to keep their art and teaching alive, passing on their fine brush painting to younger generations. You can witness them in the grounds of the city palace.

It is said that the buyers of Bulgari are hid away in this city buying up the best diamonds. Unfortunately my budget only stretched to some high quality saffron that day.

The Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, dating back to 1835 and the first palace in India to be converted to a hotel in 1957, allows you to truly experience the nostalgia of the British Raj and the lifestyle associated with this bygone era. An extensive renovation programme has seen the addition of a sumptuous tented spa facility, complete with love swings and sitar players - set in the beautifully private gardens. I hope to return when I have more time on my hands for this pampering!

On leaving the city of 3 million inhabitants, I travelled to Shapura Bagh, located midway between Jaipur and Udaipur, escaping the city into the countryside. My driver informed me that the drive from Jaipur was four hours, but I hadn't been asleep that long when we turned off the National Highway, at Gulabpura. From here it is a further 40 km of single track asphalt, slowing the journey down in order to allow passing herds of cattle, local buses bulging with colourful people and precariously loaded trucks carrying twice the height and width of itself again in hay!

Eyes wide open now, I had arrived in rural Rajasthan - raw life - and it was flooding my senses.






Shapura is a small bustling market town with a fabulous old bazaar, famed for its local Rajasthani slipper, the Mojaris. Although brimming with life, nobody appeared to be rushing. My driver continued to use his horn in the fashion of a city dweller, but nobody took the blindest notice! I knew instantly I would love it here.







Shapura bagh is a slice of heaven, offering a comfortable haven, allowing me to take a deep breath of fresh air and to hear the sounds of nature, instead of the sound of the persistent beeping of horns. Once the summer palace of the rulers of Shapura, it is now run as a boutique homestay and my hosts, Maya and Sat Singh gave me the warmest of welcomes and embraced me into their home as if I was a long lost relative. Active conservationists, they provide an eco friendly environment - solar heating, organic vegetable gardens, and fresh milk from their herd of cows. All meals are taken at the house and Maya proved to be the most excellent cook - ask for the home made Mango ice-cream!

I was lucky to spend two nights here, and it proved to be the ideal spot to recharge the batteries - no mini bar, no TV, barefooted servants with a quiet gracefulness and no airs and graces required on your behalf!








A highlight of the stay at Shapura is visiting the partly ruined and utterly romantic Dhikola Fort, which is still owned by the Singh family. Travelling by 1952 Willys jeep, up close and personal to the sights and smells of India, Sat and I drove out to the Fort for sunset. From the top of the turret the fort commands a view of the numerous lakes that extends as far as the eye can see - an unforgettable view.





I begrudgingly left the family home after a sumptuous breakfast - I hope to return again soon - and headed further south to a change in scenery. What had been stark and flat, now turned into hills rising out of the plains. After travelling for 2 ½ hours, climbing 2,100 feet above sea level the imposing property of Deogarh Mahal appeared, surrounding the small eponymous town. The palace dating back to 1670 AD was recently renovated by the current royal family, Rawat and Rani Saheb, and ten years later it has become a well established heritage hotel. I was delighted to stay in a Royal Suite - what a treat - with outdoor jacuzzi, complete with my own Sheesh Mahal mirrored room. The furnishings are all traditional, including an original solid silver bed previous owned by the Maharaja.

The real jewel in the crown for me was the recent addition of four villa rooms at Fort Seengh Sagar. These were added in 2006, and recently winning the Tatler Hideaway Award this year.

In the evening before sunset I drove through the picture postcard village and climbed up to Fort Seengh Sagar. From here with beautifully chilled wine and exquisite canapés I watched the sun set. The serenity of this truly magical hideaway would persuade anybody to stay at least for dinner, if not for a few nights.

After a perfect evening watching the setting sun, I returned to the palace for a delectable palette of traditional Mewari cuisine and dined in the company of a prince! Halfway through dinner, I was told that until the late 70s the meals were first tasted by the palace monkeys to safeguard against poisoning the royal family! On hearing this my appetite waned a little!



The following morning, feeling pleased to be alive after my evening meal, my driver and I descended down from the Aravalli range, and travelled west for three hours to the village of Rohet. Winding our way through the narrow and somewhat dishevelled streets of Rohet, I was pleasantly surprised to arrive at the gates of a somewhat grand fortified desert home.







The owners of this ancestral home, Sidhar and Rasmi Singh, opened their doors to guests in 1990, and the original wing, dating back to 1622 AD , has seen the likes of William Dalrymple residing here for five months, writing his novel 'City of Djinns'. Instantly I was at peace within the walls of Rohetgarh - it holds an aura of calm. The simplicity and local décor of this property is appealing, and further enhanced by the staff who deliver a gentle and humble greeting on arrival.



The most fabulous aspect was the view of a thousand changing images of the lakeside in front of me: cows slowly meandering to the banks of the water to drink, the lily pads a vibrant green, the movements of the birds and animals, and the dancing of the peacocks on the manicured lawns.

The descendants of the Rathores, the family are successful breeders of the Marwar horses, the indigenous horse of the Thar Desert. Its spirit is bold and fearless and you have to be a competent rider to ride in the desert. I was sorely tempted not least to ride out to and overnight at the wilderness lodge.

In the afternoon, I headed off on a village safari. Off-roading across this arid land, watching deer and blue bull roaming in the distance, we reached a local settlement of the Bishnoi tribal family. The Bishnoi are the premier ecologists of the world and have protected their lands for centuries and are responsible for the survival of species like the Black Buck Antelope. On entering the fenced compound I was required to take off my shoes to enter the mud huts - made in the traditional methods of mixing animal dung and mud together. It was a lovely experience to meet the children and sit with them in their kitchen, the sense of being transported back in time was incredible, until the ringing of a mobile phone shattered the illusion. Even the Bishnoi need their mobiles!

From Rohetgarh I travelled through scenic countryside to Jodhpur airport, where there are frequent flights back to Delhi and whose streets seemed crazy after the calm of rural Rajasthan!