Ghar Jaisal is one of a lucky few hotels tucked within the ramparts, and its contemporary interiors are in direct contrast with the ancient surroundings. Owner Mukesh Chouhan took 7 years to design and complete the rooms to his satisfaction, before opening in August 2006. He wanted to create "a sanctuary for guests, with comfort a priority". And it looks like he's achieved it. The 7 homely rooms are bursting with colour and cosy corners; the rooftop terrace a perfect place to linger over a chai and soak up the incredible views. "Most people come for 2 nights and stay for 4," he laughs. Close to the magnificent Sam sand dunes and Gadi Sagar lake, its allure lies in the fact that it's off the beaten track, yet surprisingly easy to get to.

Each of the 7 rooms is themed in a bright jewel tone, with similarly colourful names. 'Rising Sun' is a wash of royal blues, with east-facing windows; 'Maharaja' features rich reds and golds, and 'Sweet Purple' is a decadent blend of violet and mauve. Handmade quilts cover the kingsize beds, mirrored tapestries adorn the walls and the wooden furniture is all hand-carved.

Lunch and dinner are available on request from nearby restaurants, and the evening meals are served by candelight under the star-filled sky. The next-door restaurant, Suriya, will also deliver meals to the rooftop terrace.