Greystoke Mahale camp
There are few places left on earth that might rightfully be called Eden, and the Mahale Mountains, on the edge of Lake Tanganyika in western Tanzania, is one of them. On a far-flung beach along the eastern shores of the lake, below a huge story-book tropical forest, is the tiny sanctuary of Greystoke Mahale camp. The water is as clear as gin, the air scented, and the living very easy indeed.
Greystoke Mahale is situated on the shores of Lake Tanganyika this exclusive camp is the ideal way to distance oneself from civilization. Access is only by light aircraft as there are no roads for sixty miles. As you make the approach to Greystoke Mahale by dhow, the outline of the camp is visible against a backdrop of deep green forest and pale beach.
The six suites are open-fronted, with adjoining bathrooms, and upstairs chill-out decks, designed for the most demanding castaway. The highlight of the camp is the Chimpanzee tracking where you can become an intimate watcher of their secret lives. Other activities include sailing on a Tanzanian Dhow, fishing, swimming and walking.
The focal point of Greystoke Mahale is the bar and dining area rising up from the sand and loosely modelled on traditional Tongwe architecture. The air is scented with jasmine, the forest rich, the water of the lake is gin clear, and lightly chilled.
Every morning, trackers go out early to find the chimp's whereabouts, then after breakfast you can head off along the forest paths until you're surrounded by their calls. For an hour, sit quietly with them watching their daily life; grooming, wrestling, bickering, foraging, eating, and mothering.