North of Tehran across the Alborz mountains lies the Caspian Sea. To the west lies a rocky shoreline that gives way to a narrow strip of rich agricultural land where both tea and rice are still grown. This in turn gives way to mountains covered by deciduous woodland where swirling mists often envelop villages that nestle in the mountain valleys and hug the steep slopes. One such village, Masooleh, is on such an incline that the roofs of the houses form the pathways to the houses above them. Caspian caviar and fine sturgeon steaks are readily available.