Fifteen years ago I left Botswana to move to India, a truly terrible time in my teenage mind - I would lose the endless space, the wonderful character of Tswana people and the freedom and fun of packing up a small bag, hopping into our landrover and exploring this diverse and lovely country. Imagine endless channels of water carpeted with floating lilies, tiny islands ablaze with colour and echoing to a cacophony of sounds and packed full of Africa's finest game. This is the Okavango Delta.In June, the floods from Angola expand this famous area into a complex labyrinth of rivers and water channels to become one of the best and most beautiful game viewing experiences on the continent.
My latest trip was a fairly hectic whistle-stop tour of some of the finest lodges in the delta. These included Savuti Bush Camp, where elephants at a nearby waterhole are so close you can almost touch them; Kwara, where predators are rife and a cheetah kill or wild dog hunt is all part of a normal viewing experience; Little Vumbura, the most gorgeous, intimate and beautifully designed camp set in the true heart of the Delta and surrounded by water. Lastly Baines, spend a morning with a group of semi-habituated elephants where you can walk, touch and learn about these magnificent, intelligent beasts. I also loved the fact that all the walls at Baines camp are made from recycled cans - 150,000 to be exact. Durable, long lasting and a monument to the huge amount of waste we create every day.
Chief's camp, set on Chiefs island inside the Moremi game reserve, provided some of the best game viewing experiences in this entire area. In my short stay I saw lions chasing a leopard away from its recent kill and, as I boarded my flight, mating lions. Shinde, my next stop, was a striking alternative to other camps, designed with the hint of North African decor. Our night by the camp fire was spent listening to a jackal protect its territory from the roaming leopard, while a huge full moon filled the sky overhead.
However, my absolute favourite would be Macatoo camp, part of African Horseback Safaris. I would classify it as a fairly standard tented camp but what makes Macatoo so special is the atmosphere. John, a colourful character, leads horseback safaris into the delta where one can gallop endlessly through scrub bush, forests and shallow water, alongside red lechwe and giraffe. My personal highlight was riding thigh deep in water through the channels, silently tracking the wildlife.The camp also offers other activities including game drives, walks, mokoro trips and boat cruises for people not so keen on a four legged safari.Macatoo retains a relaxed feel and the staff do much to engender a sense of fun and laughter.
To round it off the food is fantastic! So, if you're looking for a real gem, this would be my choice. You will not experience the Okavango Delta in a more amazing way and you are as likely to shed a tear when you leave as to make a promise to return as soon as possible.
