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Charlotte Lawton CHARLOTTE LAWTON, EAST SPECIALIST- T: 01285 651010 - E: CHARLOTTE@steppestravel.co.UK

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Honeymoon in Indonesia

Making the decision about where to go on your honeymoon is tricky. With all those wonderful places to choose from, where do you start? We certainly decided it had to be somewhere neither of us had travelled before. We made our lists and our shortlists and the one place that kept coming up to the top was Indonesia. It seemed to offer every ingredient we were looking for – the perfect climate, ancient cultures and mix of religion, awesome landscapes, food, people and some totally gorgeous places to stay.

At first there were slight reservations regarding the recent activity in Bali and Java however somehow this didn't deter us, instead it only intrigued us further, drawing us there to discover it for ourselves and see how the forces of nature had formed this fascinating land.

Indonesia is made up of 17000 islands, each as interesting and beautiful as the other, but with only 2 and half weeks to experience what it had to offer we chose to visit Bali, Java and Lombok.

Ubud, considered the cultural heartland of Bali was our first port of call, long known as the “village of painters” it appealed to our creative sides and we were to discover some beautiful artefacts. We spent our days wandering the art and craft shops, eating delicious food, drinking fresh fruit smoothies and marvelling at the eclectic talent that has gathered here.

An easy drive south and west took us to the coastal town of Seminyak, an area north of the popular and touristy Kuta and Bukit Peninsular, where we found a good balance of stretches of empty beach, cool, funky bars, upmarket restaurants and luxurious hotels. I would highly recommend breakfast at Ku de Ta (you’ll probably end up staying there all day), sundowners at Ku de Ta (!) and then dinner just up the beach at Gado Gado. A perfect day interspersed with frolicking in the wave break!

Following that a short flight to Java took us into Yogyakarta and a heavenly stay at Amanjiwo – probably one of the best hotels in the world! Built in complete alignment with Borobadur, the largest Buddhist Temple in the world with all the spiritual energy and magic that you imagine, this hotel is a truly special place to stay. More than anything watching the sunrise over Borobadur followed by a ride on an elephant through small villages and farm land back to the hotel is something I will never forget.

Then on to Lombok, a smaller Island than Bali and much less developed, it is made up of glistening paddy fields, verdant hills, rugged mountains and long stretches of beach. The Island is dominated by Mount Rinjani and offers probably the best views across the straits to Bali and Mount Agung. Our main aim for coming to Lombok was to climb this awesome beast of a volcano which in retrospect we hadn’t really prepared ourselves for at all. It was to take us 2 nights and 3 days and on hearing about the terrain, temperature and length of walking each day, we somehow felt a little nervous. However, we rose at 3 am on the first day with all the enthusiasm of kids on Christmas Day and looked forward to the challenge ahead of us. It turned out to be one of the best experiences of the entire trip. The trek took us through some of the most interesting and diverse landscape we had ever seen, from subtropical to cold scree slopes with little vegetation. After waiting for the afternoon cloud to lift off the peak the reward is worth it as the cloud clears you see the most unbelievable view into the bottom of this vast crater from approx. 2000mtrs. Highly recommended but not for the feint hearted and a word of advice, take lots of layers and a decent sleeping bag!

Our final 5 days were spent relaxing on Gili Meno, a short boat ride off Lombok to stay at Villa Nautilus. The smallest of the 3 Gili Islands, this gorgeous little place caught us unawares. Meaning only to stay for a few days the beautiful white sand beaches, turquoise waters, excellent snorkelling, friendly islanders and general laid back vibe was all we needed to persuade us to extend our stay. Due to little tourism over the past few years, much of the island has fallen into disrepair with many resorts having closed down and some of the buildings looking rather sad, however this didn’t detract from the raw beauty of the island. Staying at Villa Nautilus was a very relaxed experience. A lovely hotel made up of 6 private villas set back from the beach in lush gardens. Beautifully designed and decorated with funky artwork and chic fabrics and furnishings we couldn’t have been more comfortable. The staff were perhaps not the most switched on but what did it matter, neither were we at that stage!

All in all we thought it was a perfect combination for a perfect honeymoon.

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Christmas in India

Sitting on my private terrace in front of my tent, the sun filters through the surrounding Sal and Eucalyptus trees and the birds chirp happily over head as the day slowly wakes itself up, as do I. I have come to Shergarh Tented Camp at Kanha National Park in central India where I am spending 10 days over Christmas and New Year with my family. I came here not only to revisit what I think is the best park in India for it’s flora and fauna, but also for some rest and relaxation, of which you can get plenty of here. It is a truly beautiful part of India. Kanha National Park extends over 1005 sq Kms, 940 Kms of which is core park area, the remainder being buffer zone where most of the tourist camps lie.

Shergarh Tented Camp is situated on the south side of the park, near the less developed Mukki entrance. Katie and Jehan Bhujwala, bought their plot of land 5 years ago with the dream to develop it into an eco-retreat which they have succeeded in doing brilliantly. There are 6 cleverly designed, comfortable tents, set in an idyllic forest, on the edge of a lake. The water attracts tons of birds and deer who come to drink at this watering hole. The whole ethos of the camp is to preserve and cultivate the land, to be sensitive not only to the environment but to the people and animals that surround it. It has such a wonderfully warm atmosphere, with friendly, helpful staff and a personal home from home feel about it. Of course as with staying anywhere in a rural setting you have to expect power cuts and a shortage of hot water from time to time but with the back up of a generator which automatically cuts in, you are never left standing in the dark for very long!!

The main reason people come to Kanha is to experience the park and hopefully catch a glimpse of Tiger, but I have found so much more here. This is a part of India where you can avoid the tourist trail completely and submerge yourself in its unique culture. Local walks to watch the sunrise on Christmas Day from a nearby hill overlooking the park will be something I never forget. Venturing down to the river, from where you can spot a plethora of birdlife, watch elephants play and be washed by their mahouts or simply while away the hours, listening to the sounds of the jungle and breathing in the almost prehistoric setting. Visiting the weekly market at Sarekha, a thrilling drive through the countryside, was a great experience particularly because the market is one that remains true to it’s original purpose, totally for the local people and not adapted to cater for the tourist market. Our Chef from Shergarh also invited us to enjoy a simple lunch at his home in a nearby village. This was such an amazing opportunity to experience domestic life in a rural village home. We sampled the staple (seasonal) diet without cutlery or furniture, seeing inside the charming mud dwellings and interacting with a unique culture.

I would recommend coming to Shergarh and staying for 4 nights minimum allowing you time to visit the park, the local markets, walk in the countryside and soak up this beautiful part of the country.

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