I found the Professor Multinovsky lying alongside the main quay in Keflavik in Iceland. Built in 1982 in Finland for the Russians, she was originally designed as a meteorological survey ship with an ice strengthened hull, although her unofficial activities included the odd bit of spying. Still with a Russian crew, she is now on permanent charter to a Danish company. We were due to sail on a 10 day trip to Scoresby Sound on the east coast of Greenland.
My cabin, with twin bunk beds, was clean with an en-suite bathroom and shower, a small desk, chair, padded bench and plenty of electrical sockets. The first to arrive I spent a few minutes exploring the ship. Bar come sitting room, dining room, lecture theatre and plenty of deck space. We sailed at six in a strengthening wind and driving rain.
The crossing to Greenland was scheduled to last 2 days but with a force 8 gale gusting 10, heavy seas and rain we arrived half a day late. On the first night only two out of 48 remained at dinner, the rest having succumbed to the pitching roll of the boat. Into the protected waters of Scoresby Sound and the sea fell flat calm.
4 zodiacs sped us ashore for a 2 hour hike up a low hill, our progress hampered by a fresh fall of snow and the view obliterated by low cloud. Our excellent and highly knowledgeable guides on hand to explain the geography, geology and wildlife. Back on board and we moved on. The following day we woke to clear blue skies. The snow covered slopes of the fjord beautiful in the sunlight. Huge icebergs drifted by, their reflection dancing in the flat calm water. This time the zodiacs took us between the icebergs, sometimes cutting through a thin layer of ice already beginning to form on the surface of the sea. At a distance they are beautiful. Close to and one appreciates the sheer size of them, some towering 50 – 100ft into the air. How old was that ice that had begun life on a glacier somewhere in the middle of Greenland? 1,000, 10,000 years? Who knows. Once again we landed and this time came within 50 yards of a musk ox, the indigenous, shaggy, bison like creature that roams the coastal regions.
After two more days of shore excursions and icebergs we arrived at Ittoqqortoormiit, the tiny settlement of 500 people that receives food twice a year by ship. We walked through the brightly painted houses, dog sleighs lying in the snow, the odd animal skin drying in the breeze and wondered what had prompted Ejnar Mikkelsen to establish such a remote community in 1925.
The journey back to Iceland was equally rough however 8 days on board had accustomed the majority to roll of the boat, allowing the lectures and meals to proceed with an almost full quota of participants. Would I do it again? Absolutely I would, but you have to like boats to obtain full enjoyment and these icebreakers have very much an expeditionary feel rather than being on a luxurious cruise.
