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Charlotte Lawton CHARLOTTE LAWTON, EAST SPECIALIST- T: 01285 651010 - E: CHARLOTTE@steppestravel.co.UK

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Christmas in India

Sitting on my private terrace in front of my tent, the sun filters through the surrounding Sal and Eucalyptus trees and the birds chirp happily over head as the day slowly wakes itself up, as do I. I have come to Shergarh Tented Camp at Kanha National Park in central India where I am spending 10 days over Christmas and New Year with my family. I came here not only to revisit what I think is the best park in India for it’s flora and fauna, but also for some rest and relaxation, of which you can get plenty of here. It is a truly beautiful part of India. Kanha National Park extends over 1005 sq Kms, 940 Kms of which is core park area, the remainder being buffer zone where most of the tourist camps lie.

Shergarh Tented Camp is situated on the south side of the park, near the less developed Mukki entrance. Katie and Jehan Bhujwala, bought their plot of land 5 years ago with the dream to develop it into an eco-retreat which they have succeeded in doing brilliantly. There are 6 cleverly designed, comfortable tents, set in an idyllic forest, on the edge of a lake. The water attracts tons of birds and deer who come to drink at this watering hole. The whole ethos of the camp is to preserve and cultivate the land, to be sensitive not only to the environment but to the people and animals that surround it. It has such a wonderfully warm atmosphere, with friendly, helpful staff and a personal home from home feel about it. Of course as with staying anywhere in a rural setting you have to expect power cuts and a shortage of hot water from time to time but with the back up of a generator which automatically cuts in, you are never left standing in the dark for very long!!

The main reason people come to Kanha is to experience the park and hopefully catch a glimpse of Tiger, but I have found so much more here. This is a part of India where you can avoid the tourist trail completely and submerge yourself in its unique culture. Local walks to watch the sunrise on Christmas Day from a nearby hill overlooking the park will be something I never forget. Venturing down to the river, from where you can spot a plethora of birdlife, watch elephants play and be washed by their mahouts or simply while away the hours, listening to the sounds of the jungle and breathing in the almost prehistoric setting. Visiting the weekly market at Sarekha, a thrilling drive through the countryside, was a great experience particularly because the market is one that remains true to it’s original purpose, totally for the local people and not adapted to cater for the tourist market. Our Chef from Shergarh also invited us to enjoy a simple lunch at his home in a nearby village. This was such an amazing opportunity to experience domestic life in a rural village home. We sampled the staple (seasonal) diet without cutlery or furniture, seeing inside the charming mud dwellings and interacting with a unique culture.

I would recommend coming to Shergarh and staying for 4 nights minimum allowing you time to visit the park, the local markets, walk in the countryside and soak up this beautiful part of the country.

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