The 4000 temples which lie scattered across the plain at Bagan are all that remain of a once important capital. Some are small, some are huge, some are in ruins while others remain in use. It is an extraordinary sight and needs a couple of days to fully appreciate the sheer size of it all. Wander around on foot or, for a more relaxing day, by horse and carriage. Nearby is the volcanic plug of Mount Popa which rises 200ft vertically out of the fertile plain. Climb the endless stairway to the summit and visit the temple dedicated to the mischievous Nat spirits which permeate the everyday life of the people. The reward is a fine view across the plain.