My first glimpse of cosmopolitan Santiago was flying over the partly snowcapped Chilean Andes. Upon arrival, one thing that struck me about the capital was how incredibly green and lush it is, with its beautiful purple flowered Jacarandas and abundant parks. The next thing was the heat! I had packed winter clothes with trekking on the Glaciers in mind so my first stop was to buy sandals!

Arriving in spring, I saw Chile at its best. Considering that it rains in Chile's Lake District most of the year, I felt incredibly privileged to witness the beautiful Osorno Volcano in its true glory. On route to Lake Todos los Santos, I visited Petrohue Falls with its turquoise waters crashing through narrow gorges. Completing part of the lake crossing across the Andes it felt almost strange returning back to the lovely bohemian town of Puerto Varas.

Upon meeting the owner of the picturesque log cabin Quincho, I was cordially invited to an exclusive gathering of riders at the local Chilean Rodeo. To my disbelief, I was fortunate enough to witness a truly memorable traditional pastime.

Arriving in Patagonia was like entering the Wild West. Its rugged mountains and landscape completely took my breath away. The person who coined the phrase 'to experience four seasons in one day' was more than likely in Patagonia at the time! Waking up early at my Estancia in Torres del Paine, I ventured to the window. On cue, the clouds parted and afforded me my first glimpse of the eponymous Towers.


It is amazing how such a variety of plants and wildlife can survive in such harsh conditions, from Guanaco to mountain hares and of course the iconic condor! I then embarked on my first real adventure: a horseback ride that tested my limited equestrian skills. Communication was a little difficult with my horse, who didn't seem overly keen on carrying me and at times had me clinging on for dear life. The harsh Patagonian winds and my gaucho's limited English made for a memorable trip.

Crossing from Chile to Argentina, a journey of approximately 3 hours, took me to the shores of Lago Argentino, from where I transferred to the magnificent Hosteria Los Notros at the base of the Perito Moreno Glacier. Opening the curtains the following morning took my breath away. The prospect of a full days trekking on the Glacier was somewhat daunting as all I could think of was the huge chunks which yesterday I had heard crashing into the Lake Argentino. Equipped with crampons, we embarked on a truly memorable day's hiking over seemingly bottomless crevasses and icy blue pools and rivers.


From here I travelled up the Brazo Norte and Braza Upsala past icebergs, only recently split from the front of the Glacier and past the rainbows which seemed to end in the lake. Upon arrival at Estancia Cristina, I embarked upon a 4 wheel drive excursion through Lenga forests up to one of the most magnificent sights I have ever set eyes upon. Three glaciers combined into one, a fluorescent turquoise lake forming from the glacial meltwater mixing with the sediment. To top it all, as I stood there with my pumpkin soup, a condor flew over to complete the setting.

Buenos Aires was the finale of my trip, a lively, bustling city which has so much to offer. The home of tango, the Italian quarter of La Boca's streets are lined with dancers, artists and brightly coloured buildings. Attending the Carlos Gardel Tango show was a real insight into the secretive and soulful history of Tango.





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