I was glad to be on board the Professor Mulchanov. Not just because it was ice-strengthened but more particularly because it is one the smaller boats in Antarctica, enabling us to cruise into small bays and inlets and see so much more. Also because of the vast amount of knowledge and expertise on board, in particular Barry, our geologist, who has 50 years experience of the Antarctica.


I was also glad once we had crossed the infamous Drake Passage. Yes it gave me time to get to know the crew, learn more about the Antarctic and fully appreciate what we were letting ourselves in for but it was good to awake to brilliant sunshine and calmer seas on day two. Mid morning we were surrounded by Humpback whales - incredible. In the afternoon we spotted our first iceberg. In the evening we watched the most stunning, lingering 2 hour sunset. I went to bed elated.





Next day we reached South Shetlands and landed on Half Moon Island with its colony of Chinstrap Penguins. There was an initial excitement and frenzied clicking of cameras when we saw penguins for the first time which waned later that afternoon when we visited a colony of 200,000.

Over the next few days we visited more bays, islands and working stations. Highlights include the protected anchorage in Paradise Bay followed by the Peztval Glacier with its amazing towers of precariously balanced snow and ice. The icebergs throughout were stunning, the fluting, the clarity of the water, the brilliant blues, the incredible shapes and sizes.




Most memorable was a zodiac cruise through Pleneau Bay where Barry pointed out a pair of Minke whales. Minkes are normally shy and timid but these two were quite the exception, diving under the zodiac and even gently nudging it. Having a 30 foot, six ton whale so close was absolutely extraordinary.








On our last day we wound our way in zodiacs through narrow gullies between spectacular icebergs around the ice covered Melchior Islands and followed Humpback whales across open water. A magical end. A lasting memory, as with every moment of this journey.

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